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16 replies
  1. Avatar
    marciavara says:

    Um, correct me if I'm wrong but this video shows the tank being emptied, cleaning agent filling the tank, the tank being shut off (with cleaning agent still inside), the system emptied again and filters changed, then the tank opened again. The cleaning agent that was in the tank runs through the system again. Doesn't make sense. The presenter says the tank has clean water, but it doesn't, it has tap water mixed with cleaning agent.

  2. Avatar
    Dawn Lauryn says:

    Great video, TY. Do you have any tricks to opening a very stubborn RO Housing that a water service co tightened overzealously? Seriously, the one I have won't budge and my boyfriend thinks it won't open without the housing being damaged. He's already tried a channel lock and without success.

  3. Avatar
    ThePariss333 says:

    The flow Arrow, that is confuse :  The Inline filter Arrow point to the T that go to the Tank and the Control valve and the Other End Go to the Faucet. Is that Correct ? Please Help, the video doesn't Explain that.

  4. Avatar
    Keda Wood Dye says:

    Should you just drain your system/tank once in awhile to get fresh water through? Meaning like between filter changes? Awesome video T! Thank you…the RO water has been working amazing for my wood dyes 👍

  5. Avatar
    Ȟᴇċĸȧĸŷʜ Âɡᴇĸʙȧᴛᴇʜ says:

    Use 0.2% hydrogen peroxide in attached 5L bottle prior to system and push it with manual air pump. No need to remove membrane or filters, but filters need to be replaced after.
    PS. Dont use water tank, use direct flow 100+100 sequential or sidestream (more expensive). Water tank is outdated technology.

  6. Avatar
    Timothy Corcoran says:

    You said to remove all filters but you left the filter on top of the membrane housing in place during the sanitizing process. I just want to clarify if this filter needs to be removed or left in place during the sanitization process. Thanks.


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