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If you don’t get the venting part of your rainwater collection system right you will get very little water into your totes or barrels. Here I show two methods that …
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20 replies
  1. Avatar
    Tom W5VLT says:

    Hi, great info.  Question, the 4 tote system 2 + 2 totes with the upper going to the high drilled hole in the lower tote… don't you lose the top 5-6 inches of the tote (above the pipe entry point) that would be unable to vent?  Also, do you still use these types of solutions for water storage and emergency water now that you're in Idaho, or did you go to a well or another type of solution?  Thanks again.

  2. Avatar
    Ken Edelstein says:

    First, I want to thank you for this wonderful series. I admire not only the care you put into designing and executing the system itself, but also the care you put into patiently explaining and recording. What a great job you did with this!

    Second, I have a question about a potential third venting/connection between the two tanks: Did you explore elbowing a pipe from the outflow on the top tank back in between the two tanks, and then into the top opening on the bottom tank. This would be something like your solution #2 but it wouldn't require cutting a hole in the bottom tank, although I suppose it would require elevating the top tank to allow room for the (2 inch?) pipe?

  3. Avatar
    Andrew Cobb says:

    Thanks so much for this video! I like that you are in Houston, as I am too. What kind of PSI do you get on the two versions you have? I have a 100 ft of drip line I would like to run off a setup like this.

  4. Avatar
    Frank Gomez says:

    I don't know another way to get a hold of you, I need to know how do you keep your tanks from freezing in the winter, I have a 330 gallon tank painted black , and I am in Zone 6, SE Pennsylvania.. please give me some tips, my address is Thank you Frank

  5. Avatar
    Richard Green says:

    Is there a lot of pressure on the venting connection (bottom lid) when both tanks are full? trying to figure out a way to make a secure leak free connection without working with a lid that came already witha female thread.

  6. Avatar
    NcVanCamper says:

    Just curious, why didn't you go from the out put of the top tank to the top cap of the bottom tank. Granted you would have to reduce the transfer pipe, but then the tank remains intact. And air trapped the top of the bottom tank gets pushed up to the top tank trough a single pipe that also carries the water to the bottom one.

  7. Avatar
    SuLebo215 says:

    A plumbing/physics dummy question for anyone 🙂 Wouldn't it be sufficient to just either perforate the bung and put a piece of screen inside – or remove the bung altogether and just attach a screen cover over the 6" hole? I've done the latter and it works fine. The fancy vent system you created here looks like something you'd do for a bathroom to move the gases above the system.

  8. Avatar
    Winter Star says:

    I know this is replying to a fossil video, but folks interested in this system, need to know…Some suggestions: 
    1. The extra 2x4s holding space for the air vent pipe, should extend over the outer frame for best support…not just across the weaker mid-braces (which aren’t capable of so much pressure on them).
    2. Another air vent option: using a tubing that can flatten a bit, instead of hard PVC…no worries about pressure from top tank cracking anything under it. It’s sold by the foot or roll, at hardware stores. It doesn’t entirely close when flattened…there’s always some opening. Bigger volumes under pressure can open it more to vent. But, IDK if that will move the vented air/water fast enough to avoid slowing water output.
    3. To easily stretch a too-small rubber gasket over the PVC adapter, smear petroleum jelly on the rubber gasket..helps both preserve the rubber, and helps stretch it onto the PVC pipe..
    Petroleum jelly works to rejuvenate rubber gaskets around fridge doors, too.


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